Beach morphodynamic characteristics and classifications on the straight coastal sectors in the west Guangdong

doi:10.1007/s11442-020-1776-x

Abstract

Abstract:

Currently beach morphodynamic classification is the most important foundation to conduct associated coastal geomorphological studies. This paper carried out beach morphodynamic classifications for 12 straight beaches on headland-bay coasts based on field survey and evaluated the applicability of the most widely used dimensional fall velocity parameter (Ω) and relative tidal range parameter (RTR). One reflective, five intermediate and six non-barred dissipative beaches were visually classified and sand size seemed to be a key factor to differentiate these beaches. The studied beaches were in relatively low wave energy environments (H_s < 1 m) and the absolute deep-water wave energy level of P₀ = 3 KWm^-1 was supposed to a critical threshold to characterize the applicability of the Ω and RTR parameters. These two morphodynamic parameters were applicable for the beaches with P₀ > 3 KWm ^-1 and MSR < 2 m. It was found that the model of the traditional winter-and-summer profiles was not applicable in the study area in despite of distinct wave seasonality. The studied beaches were more possible to hover around a limited range due to relatively low background wave environments and variability without considering typhoon impacts, which needs further research on actual breaker wave conditions and beach morphodynamic type responses to typhoon events.

Key words: beach morphodynamic type, dimensionless fall velocity, relative tidal range, wave power level, straight beaches

DING Yuanting, YU Jitao, CHENG Huangxin. Beach morphodynamic characteristics and classifications on the straight coastal sectors in the west Guangdong[J].Journal of Geographical Sciences, 2020, 30(7): 1179-1194.

Figures/Tables 8

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	Reflective	Intermediate	Non-barred dissipative
Beach sites	Dongdao Beach	Bohe Bay, Fuhu Bay, Hebei Bay, Shili Beach, Sanya Bay	Jizhao Bay, Wangcun Bay, Aonei Bay, Shuidong Bay, Shuidong Dong, Hailing Bay
Sand characteristics	Coarse sand	Mainly medium sand	Fine sand
Intertidal gradient	Steep (>10°)	Steeper on the upper beach (6°-10°) and moderately steep on the lower beach (3°-6°)	Moderately steep on the upper beach (3°-5°) and flat on the lower beach (1°-2°)
Breaker types	Plunging breakers	Plunging breakers	Plunging breakers during high tide, spilling breakers during low tide
Characteristic morphology	Swash cusps and berm	Rip/bar morphology	Concave profile, featureless morphology
Dominant process	Swash zone/surf zone	Surf zone	Surf zone/shoaling